chidade.net

Early wake up to get on a train for Kamiooka, my old stomping ground. Arrived earlier than expected, curse my Type A-ness. Still, it was good to wander around Yokohama for the first time in a year. Aah, the More’s Building. How often I’ve emptied my wallet there. Check out the old arcade, nothing worth trying to win this morning. I totally own at the UFO catchers.

Anyway, onto Kamiooka. Oh gods, my old eikaiwa *shudder* Quick, look away! Don’t make eye contact! Yay! T & M! Reunion! Have an ice kohii at there place because even at 10.30am, the sweat is already running down my back in torrents. Damn tsuyu.

Hadn’t really looked at the Lonely Planet’s pages on Kamakura. It’s so close to Kamiooka, I’d been there before during the 10 months I lived here, but unfortunately my camera was stolen soon after and I wanted to get more photos again. T & M wanted to go along because apparently the hydrangeas are in bloom all over Kamakura at the moment. That’s….such a Japanese reason to go somewhere XD

But anyway, I basically thought that all there was to see was the Daibutsu, or Giant Buddha. It’s about 800 years old and quite spectacular. It used to be housed within a temple but a tsunami had washed away the building, leaving only the temple. It must’ve been a heck of a tsunami. Kamakura is on the shore but the Daibutsu is still about a kilometre away from the beach with big hills in the way.

I knew that there were more temples around Kamakura, but I didn’t think they were going to be that special. I had been to the main one at the top of the shopping street which was quite nice but….you know…..just another temple. T had some ideas about where to take me in Kamakura though and I was happy to let him lead. I just wanted to have photos of the Daibutsu and the rest was up to them.

First, to the most famous hydrangea temple in Kamakura, Hase-dera. Heh, they’d never mention that in the Lonely Planet. No, all that they say about this place is that “it has the largest wooden statue in Japan carved in 912″ - feh! How is that important compared to the hydrangeas?! There were hundreds of small statues of Jizo which were very cool. I took a couple of shots which I’m proud of. May submit one to Metropolis. It also has an impressive view over the bay.

It was CRAWLING with people all over Kamakura, but particularly in Hase-dera. M said that there had been a special on the television about Kamakura’s hydrangeas, and since it was a sunny Saturday, absolutely everyone in the Kanagawa and Tokyo region wanted to see them today *rolls eyes* So there was a 40 minute wait to go for a walk along this Hydrangea Path within the temple grounds. It wasn’t the ONLY place you could see them, mind you. They were growing out of cracks in the pavement! So we decided to skip it and move on the Daibutsu.

Daibutsu, photos photos photos - finally saw a squirrel! I seriously need to smuggle some into Australia. Okay, photos done, NEXT!

T said he wanted to take me to Zeniarai Benten, so off we went - got lost - got lost again - gave up an caught a bus to the station - had lunch - revived - then got proper directions - and finally we walked up this hill to find a great big tunnel bored into the rock with a torii gate outlining it.

This shrine has now been added to Chidade’s Awesome List™.

First cool part is the tunnel in the rock. When you walk out to the other side, there are many red torii gates to walk through, like Fushimi Inari in Kyoto, although not as beautiful. The shrine is in a tiny little gully that is almost completely closed off by hills all the way around. There are two ways to get in: the tunnel, and a back entrance if you climb the stairs over a smaller hill. So the surrounded and hidden feeling to the place is another cool factor.

Finally, you go into a cave carved into the side of the hill where a natural spring wells. And there……you wash your money. Zeni-arai means “coin washing” but these days people seem to wash paper notes. Out of greed? I don’t know but I washed 1000 yen. T & M told me to keep it in my wallet and never spend it, like a lucky charm to make me rich, but I’ve read other sources that say the idea is to spend money that has been washed in the springs and it will return two-fold. I think I’ll just keep it as a souvenir.

Such a unique tradition - washing your money in the spring to bring fortune. And the Lonely Planet never mentioned this! Zeniarai Benten is listed on their map but not described. Odd, given it’s uniqueness and apparently it’s the second-most visited shrine in Kamakura (awesome link found via Frangipani).

Anyway, Zeniarai Benten: now on my awesome list, along with Nijo-jo in Kyoto, Gyokusendo Cave in Okinawa, Zuigudo underneath Kiyomizu-dera in Kyoto, Takeshita-dori in Harajuku and all of Akihabara, heh. Hmm, maybe I should set up a page of these places.

The next place we visited was just a short walk away from Zeniarai Benten if you take the back route. It’s called the Sasuke Inari Shrine. Cool, because it does the multiple torii gates thing, has dozens of statues of foxes (because Inari is a god of foxes, among other things), has a cool name, but mainly because, despite being less than 50km from Tokyo, it really seems like you’ve founded a hidden little shrine in the middle of the forest, untouched and unvisited for years. Completely not the case, but the atmosphere is like that.

After that, we headed back to T & M’s for a much needed shower before off to the izakaya for a massive party. About 6 old students, 2 old friends and assorted were there. To summarise the night, I’m going to borrow Circus Girl’s blogging style again:

To the station! I need to pick up S and his mystery friend! You! It’s you! *glomp* I’ll be right back, I need to find S, T keeps me company, he never arrives, never answers my texts, eventually call him and find out he’s already at the izakaya, WTF? Well at least I can make a grand entrance now with all the other guests there, get cheered, take a bow “You bastard, you never emailed me”, debates on email, shut up and order a drink! I’ll have a sour, a sour what, uhhhhh, apple? Yes, Apple Sour, “Minna san! Omiyage desu!”, yaaaaay, boomerang makes me an accessory, canned kangaroo! No really! I think we should open it right now, muaahahahahaa they totally fell for it! Wow, M-chan’s English is awesome now! So is S’s! Heh, so the new gf is a Hong Kong expat too, eh? I detect a fetish. Beer! I don’t drink beer? BUT I’LL DRINK THIS BEER! Wheee, room is kind of spinning, I can haz foowd now pwease? TUNA!!! where’s the salmon? “It’s fish but it doesn’t taste like it”, “K, I’m probably drunk enough now”, mmm, cheezy, what, it’s over already? BUT WE JUST GOT HERE!! Okay, back for some drunken Wiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii! Buh-bye some people, I’ll see you in a month! Bottle shop stopover, beer beer beer, girly drink, H lives in that big building? Really? Can I see? Get taken up to the viewing platform, “YOKOHAMA I MISSED YOU!!”, wow don’t want to drop my camera down there O_o, okay, onto T & M’s place, photo slideshow time! Man, I should really do this on my Wii too, catching up, drinking coke and vodka, what a combo, getting pretty woozy now, how did I get so drunk so quickly? *glomps Canadian*, why is the Billy Banks exercise DVD playing? More gossip, YAY! A’s here! Omiyage! “Sorry, I’m a bit drunk”, catching up, ok, so this is how you play Rayman, I love that song, um, are you ok? Sleepy? “Where’s he going to sleep?” (With me!!!) “He should be on the floor in the hallway” (?!) “and A can share with you” (No, he can sleep with me, really!) “Ok, we’ll set up a futon in the lounge room” (Awwww) Brush teeth, “Oyasumi“, unconsciousness.

• Leave a comment... (0)

One thing I’ve wanted to do since…oooh….2003 was to see the pillows in a live gig. Since I’ve been in Japan, they overtaken The Cat Empire as my favourite band. It’s also partly because TCE’s second album Two Shoes album was, well, pretty disappointing. I’ve only heard two songs from the third album, Cities, but out of those two, I already find one (Miss Soul) pretty mediocre. The TCE members’ side projects are getting more play on nano-kun than TCE themselves. The pillows, on the other hand, have been together for nearly 20 years and their last album My Foot was rockin’.

I still love the Cats, and I’ll always be part of their hometown crowd - going to every gig possible (it must be into double digits by now?) - but whilst in Japan, the pillows have been the soundtrack to my life. Little Busters is what I played as I unpacked my suitcase, Skeleton Liar was playing as the train pulled into Akihabara that first time, I had Nightmare thrashing at probably damaging volumes when the other teachers at my branch pissed me off so much I had to stick my iPod in to drown them out, I watched Mt Fuji from the top of the hill behind my house at 6am with Hybrid Rainbow playing in my ears…so many occassions when there’s been a pillows song to match the moment.

Despite my gushings, I’m not that much of a rabid fangirl. I don’t know the band members’ names ‘cept “Sawao”, the lead singer. I don’t know what the lyrics mean in English. Half the time I don’t even remember the title of the track I’m listening to and have to glance down at nano-kun’s display to double-check. But I think I have all the albums, except maybe the very early ones that are now out of print. There’s a pile of pillows CDs as tall as my stereo here. A second pile that’s the same height are all the other Japanese CDs I’ve bought. As an aside, I’ve only bought one foreign artist’s CD here - Fatboy Slim’s Best Of. And I’m glad I got the Japanese version of that because there’s a bonus Japan-only remix by Fantastic Plastic Machine.

Anyway, I digress.

I love the pillows’ music intensely. It’s rock and pop and occassionally electronic, occassionally reggae (waaaay back), occassionally old school rock’n'roll - it’s catchy as hell with broken English choruses, euphoric melodies and fizzy riffs. Like most gaijin fans, I first heard them on the FLCL anime soundtrack, but unlike most gaijin fans, I didn’t stop there and bought more. One day I’ll have the entire back-catalogue.

The drummer has a side project called “The Peas” or, “The Pees”, however you transliterate ザピーズ. I bought one of their CDs too, which was a pure rock project - enjoyable too - and they’ve been around since 1998, I think, so a big back-catalogue to collect there too! Tower Records in Yokohama always empties my wallet everytime I go there. I’ve filled up at least three points cards since I arrived.

Good grief, I’ve written five paragraphs and I haven’t even gotten to the main part of the story.

I had tried to book tickets for the pillows earlier. Around Christmas time I heard that they were doing a New Year gig, which I definitely wanted to go to, even if it was by myself. Sadly, it was sold out, as were the next two gigs in Tokyo. Nee-san signed me up for the ticket company’s newsletter, so I occassionally get Japanese emails about concerts that I can’t understand. Once, just once, I saw them listed in Metropolis but it clashed with one of my trips to Kyoto. Also, their website only shows Japanese gigs in Japanese, only the American gigs are on the English part of their website.

So basically, it was difficult to get information on their gigs. I can only read hiragana and katakana. My kanji is laughable. The few times that nee-san would visit our apartment were the only occassions when I could get a translation from the website. And again, sold out, sold out, sold out, wait, that one’s not sold out! Ah, but it’s in Kyushu.

“How about Shibuya?”
“Yes!”
“Shibuya’s not too far?”
“Dude, we live in Yokohama.”
“Yes, but you might have to run for the last train.”
“I don’t care, I’ll sleep out in the streets if I have to. I want to watch this band live!”

I think I scared her a bit, with that comment. But, she’s wonderful, and arranged tickets from Lawsons (which again, has only Japanese ticket machines) for me. Two tickets. Did nee-san want to come? Sorry no, she didn’t know this band and she had work the next day.

Funny that, Every single Japanese person I’ve asked has not heard of the pillows. I haven’t heard their music in any shops or on TV, evidently they aren’t completely mainstream - but their shows keep selling out? Must play small gigs.

“L! I have a surprise for you!”
“Is it food?”
“Um, no”
“I’m feeling shitty and I demand chocolate”
“Um. Okay. I have some. But I have something else for you!”
“ehh”
“A ticket to see the pillows!”
“Isn’t that that favourite band of yours that I’ve never heard before?”
“Yes! You’re coming with me to see the gig!”
“I don’t have money!”
“I’m paying. In fact, I’ve already paid! Ah ha!”

Apparently pillows tickets aren’t appreciated as much as tickets to the Studio Ghibli museum. And she umm-ed and ahh-ed about it for weeks, ’til half an hour before the gig, she told me she wouldn’t be coming. Probably just as well, as we would’ve been late if I waited for her. I didn’t mind going by myself so much, but I think she would’ve liked the gig even if she’d never heard of them. We have pretty similar tastes in music.

The gig was called “Getting Better - 10 year anniversary”. The pillows were headlining but there were three or four other bands playing. I had no idea what Getting Better was but I imagined it was some music magazine. Later I learned it was a regular rock gig held at Shibuya O-EAST, one of the major gig locations in Japan. The DJ played rock music (Jet, The Strokes, Oasis und so weiter), the bands played rock music. The kids danced and moshed and rocked on. And this has been going for 10 years? Damn, I’m jealous. I wish I had been a part of it.

After asking for directions at the koban, I made it to Shibuya O-EAST a little late. The first performer was on stage, a single man with an acoustic guitar. Not entirely sure who he was but the music was pretty good. I made use of my free drink coupon upstairs and watched the TV screens broadcasting what was on stage. Dang, they need to do that in more venues in Australia. The only place I can think of that does that is Melbourne Park so you can watch the tennis game inside while you’re queuing up.

Two or three songs later, he was off. Next, a strange band that, in hindsight, I’m not sure how they got the gig. It’s a rock gig isn’t it? But the lead singer was an American who played the violin, and the music was a cross between The Corrs and a traditional African percussion band. Great percussion, but sadly interspersed with wailing violin talking of a lost love at age 12. Wasn’t impressed, but used the time to find a good vantage point on the staircase (something you’d never get away with back home - good ol’ lax Japanese fire safety laws). Four songs later and they were gone too.

Next was another band, which I learnt from the animated displays on giant screens around the venue were called Come Back, My Daughters. Not bad really, but I was starting to get angsty. I knew that the pillows were headlining so they’ll be on last, but I wasn’t sure how many bands were left til they would perform. Each time a new band arrived, I was counting how many members went on stage. The pillows have three members. Come Back, My Daughters finished, and the DJ played the good rock stuff while the set changed. Jet is amazingly popular here. Everyone went nuts when Are You Gonna Be My Girl started playing. The crowd was getting worked up. And judging from the time, it would be about right if the pillows played next.

Lights went up again. Crowd cheered! One…two…three…..four people? Bloody hell, couldn’t be the pillows yet. They started playing a song that I didn’t recognise, but was fun nonetheless. Everyone in the crowd was getting right into it. And I started thinking…that drummer looks like the pillows’ drummer. And even though I don’t know the song, the singer’s voice seems familiar. Hang on, don’t the pillows always have a guest bassist? Because the first one quit? So the fourth guy could be the guest bassist and this could be the pillows playing RIGHT NOW?

“Okay?!” shouts the lead singer after his short rock intro.
“OKAY!” scream the crowd. And suddenly the lights go up, that fast drum roll begins and Sawao is singing Rock’n'Roll Sinners, the crowd is moshing and I’m thinking “holy crap…it is them!”

All the people of the earth
want to rock and roll.
I quit forgot. yes.
I’ll try to do better in future.
All the people of the earth
want to rock and roll.
I will do it yet.
I felt my heart beating wildly.
What do you want?

Awesome.

I feel silly that I didn’t even recognise my favourite band when they went on stage, not even until the second song. But on the other hand, I like nice surprises like that, too. Sawao jumps around the stage like a madman. They all do. This is a rock gig so a rock setlist, please:

Unknown Rockin Intro
Rock’n'Roll Sinners

Then, after that, Sawao yells out “Crazy Sunshiiiiine!” and the crowd goes off again. I can see now why their gigs sell out again and again. There are bigger fans here than I, with merchandise I’d never heard of draped over them (a Little Busters towel! I want!), singing along with the words, and all punching the air at the same time.

Crazy Sunshine
My Foot
Please Mr. Lostman (old school and slower, so people can catch their breath)
Another song from the My Foot album whose name alludes me now (EDIT: It was The Air Lelistor)
The Third Eye

My camera battery dies so I decide to join the mosh. Sawao is saying happy birthday to Getting Better - and I sing along. Getting Better - what awesome gigs they must’ve had.

The band were rockin’ like no band I’ve seen before. Actually, no maybe Tim Rogers and You Am I beat them. But the energy on this stage is amazing. The energy in the CROWD is amazing. When I first walked in the door they asked me which band I was looking forward to seeing. I think everyone would’ve said the pillows. They put in a…I know I’ve said it a dozen times already - but really a rockin’ show.

The opening chords for Little Busters and I feel my throat getting dry. This is my quintessential Japan song. Playing this in the suburbs of Melbourne made me want to play it in Japan. It was listening to this song that made me finally decide to apply for my job here. I played it while I filled out the application forms, I played it as I left the country, I played it when I arrived…and now I was hearing it live by my favourite band. The crowd claps in time at the solo and so do I.

With the kids sing out the future
Maybe kids don’t need the masters
Just waiting for the Little Busters, oh yeah…

It seems like this song is their theme song, much like The Chariot is TCE’s. Not that surprising. The band’s mascot is a bear named Buster. At the end of the show I bought one that now hangs from my bag, going with me whereever I go. They finish Little Busters, say thankyou and walk off.

The DJ starts playing Video Killed The Radio Star, which was cleverly picked because it has a good, fast beat to clap along to when you’re demanding an encore. And half way through the song, the pillows comply. Sawao starts to play the Video Killed… riff, we clap along and he sings the words but not very well, because although the pillows often have lyrics in English…it’s not the best English. Which I guess is part of the charm.

He soon laughs at himself and says something rapidly in Japanese. Everyone else laughs, there is another message congratulating Getting Better, and for their encore they play perhaps their heaviest track - Advice. Pure, grinding guitar and sweating moshers. It’s over all too soon and they say goodnight again, this time when the lights go up to tell everyone to catch their last trains. Actually it’s not that late. I might go have a subway supper.

The set is getting dismantled. The DJ plays Whatever - probably my favourite Oasis track. Soon, he lowers the volume…

“Anou….arigatou gozaimashita”

…and bows. The audience cheers and applauds. Aah, so this DJ is the man behind Getting Better? He’s grinning like his child has graduated high school with top marks, so I think this must be a very nostalgic night for him. I like him. Excellent taste in music, and it’s good to see that someone was promoting Japanese rock here in Shibuya - home of the ko-gal and ganguro who only want parapara, R’n'B and hip-hop. I hope Getting Better can go for another 10 years, because I want to sample it on a normal night soon!

Outside, and make a beeline for the merch tables. Holy crap! Autograph cards! Not as great as getting their autograph personally, but AUTOGRAPH CARDS! The woman at the bench says in perfect English that if I’d like one, please buy a CD to the value of 2000 yen. OK, this one. Aaaand, this one. Ooh, I haven’t seen that one before. Plus I’ll get a T-shirt, the stickers and a little Buster-kun keychain, please.

15,000 yen later, I stumble towards Hachiko crossing, passing the Shibuya-kei and Visual-kei cosplayers and band-members. There’s some Lolita wandering around too. Tomorrow is Sunday, the day they all hang out in Harajuku. I guess that Sunday actually starts at 7pm Saturday night for them. I wish my camera’s battery hadn’t died.

The gig was awesome, and I’m so glad I saw them, but it was too short! I guess that comes from sharing the bill at a birthday bash. Only eight or nine songs tonight, but it’s still an adrenaline rush. It might be a while before I can see them live again - I hope I can. But the lack of Japanese might work against me once more. Besides, I think they’re touring America at the moment. North America gets all the luck.

Come to Australia, too!

• Leave a comment... (2)

I was so pumped up about going. Why? It’s not the bar or pub that people claimed it to be. It’s just another fucking nightclub! Why am I here?

Night started okay. Some chatting, some food. Club was empty to begin with and they were playing songs at a reasonable volume. Got some flirting action going. Ah, yeah. Now I remember why I was keen. The Canadians. But they’re just sinophiles like every other gaijin male in Japan.

“Let’s pick up as a team, you find yourself some Japanese boy and I’ll get a girl”
“Uh, right.”
“Ganbatte! Kampai! Hey, check out that one!”
“It’s just that I kinda like Cana….oh fuck you too”

Why am I here?

I can’t get out of here either. Roppongi was a 90 minute trip from home and the trains stopped running almost immediately after I arrived.

Fucking cigarette smoke.

Canadian #2 is on the couch next to me with his arm around a Japanese girl whose panties are showing below her shirt line. His hand is above her skirt line. That was fast.

I don’t blame the Japanese girls. There are many that will just push the men away when they act like jerks and good on them. Some have been talking to me too and they’re lovely. It’s just the men that go stupid here. Any man that’s come to work in Japan has come purely for the women. Men are idiots.

Why am I here?

The Russian models have arrived. Apparently they’re here every week. Someone suggested that they’re paid to be here. They’d definitely get in for free.

Now the music is getting loud. And shit. The dancing is getting pathetic. This isn’t dancing! Swing or samba or hell even the waltz is even more legitimate dancing than this. *This* is just parading yourself for the meat market. The fashion is interesting at least. But it doesn’t compensate for the sinophile bastards, the cigarette smoke, the volume of the music, how shit the music is, the lack of food, the 2 toilets available that later flooded…

Now the Russians are screaming randomly. “Russki yeah!” Yeah whatever, mate.

Why am I here?

“Hey, what’s wrong? You should go find some boy to pleasure!” Ha! They’re not interested! I’m not Japanese or as stick-thin as the Russians and I don’t like dancing. Oh, I could probably pick up, but I’m not that desperate that I’d have some of the twits here.

YOU CAN’T DANCE HIP HOP STYLE TO FRANZ FERDINAND, YOU GIT! That totally ruined the song for me, one of only 3 that I liked tonight.

I can’t talk without my throat hurting now because of cigarette smoke and trying to yell over the music to be heard.

“Russki yeah!”

Oh for fucks sake. The Russian models have decided that this 30cm wide bench can double as a podium stage so they’re dancing next to my neck level, occasionally kicking it. Oh, fuck off! They were my Harajuku shoes, you dumb bitch! They can’t be cleaned!

“RUSSKI YEAH!”

SHUT. THE. FUCK. UP. YOU. FUCKING. RUSSIANS!

Didn’t they play this song before? Like, TWICE before?

Why am I HERE?

“Hey! You’re still here! Go out and dance!”
“I don’t dance and definitely not to crap like this”
“What?”
“I SAID I DON’T oh fuck it”
“What?”

4am. 1 more hour before the trains start running. And I’m supposed to go to work later today. Been sitting here next to the podium dancers cradling drinks. Thank fuck it was all you can drink tonight otherwise I’d have more to bitch about.

Why am I here?

Oh yes. Coz of him that’s dancing with the girl that looks like she could be haffu. That means half-Japanese, half-something else. I recognise her. She was also dancing with Canadian #2, 2 Russians and a black guy with his baseball cap slanted on one side. They all had their hands up under her top too. So she’s not that keen for you specially, you know.

Finally. Time to go home. YES, NOW, TIME TO GO HOME. Give me the key to the locker then so I can get my own stuff out. Everything smells like cigarette smoke.

Trip home was not fun either. No express trains running so it took 2 hours. Listening to the Canadians carry on about how they “fucked up” because they didn’t pick up tonight. Looks like they’ll have to try again next week.

Not with me they fucking don’t.

Roppongi. What a waste of time.

• Leave a comment... (4)